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advanced anet a8 extruder screw

- Aug 02, 2022 -

advanced anet a8 extruder screw

I removed the hot end and extruder assembly and tightened the grub screw, but I think I may have over tightened it and damaged the thread, as now it just keeps turning.

advanced anet a8 extruder screw

Pressing the hex screw in order to replace a filament is one of the worst experiences I had with A8. Especially if you’re starting out, you’ll be doing it quite a lot. The screw that needs to be pressed causes a pain in the thumb. Luckily enough, there is a solution. Extruder button is one of the simplest and fastest prints you can do.

I personally tried two guides and both worked well for me. I use them both. One serves as an upper guide, the other is mounted above the extruder hole. One thing though, even though I found the extruder guide helpful it makes inserting filament slightly less comfortable. It requires me to hold the filament below the tiny space from the guide and the hole to be able to put it into the hole precisely. Still, I think it’s a good upgrade.

Secondly, I noticed that the Y tensioner vibrates just slightly and causes additional noise. Also when put directly the screw it uses can scratch the acrylics.

Since I moved to printing on a Anet A8 glass bed, I decided to permanently modify my heat bed. I really hate the way the bed has to be adjusted with a screw. So by printing wingnuts, you can modify it permanently. It’s much easier and faster. Furthermore, this adjustment allows me to use the full width of the glass bed 220 x 220, since I no longer need access to the screws.

Like with a hotend, E3D Titan extruder enables you to print wide variety of materials without clogging. According to people who own it, it’s an expensive, but worthy upgrade if you plan to print with different types of materials. The Titan Extruder preforms leaps and bounds better than the Anet A8 extruder.

As promised earlier, I have upgraded my heatbed by putting 220 x 220 x 3 mm thick glass on top of it. If you intend to still level your heat bed with a screw, you should get a slightly smaller glass and these clips to hold it better. On my printer, I have 220 x 220 size glass with slightly drilled and extended holes, glass angle holders, and printed wingnuts.

advanced anet a8 extruder screw

The Anet A8 Plus is a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3d printer. The printer creates a flat pattern of a material which can be fused to the next layer. The printer then raises the print head the thickness of the material and creates the next layer of the model, fusing it to the previous layer. The material is also cooled as it is extruded so that bridging and overhangs of the material on the previous layer is possible. The printer has a large 300 x 300 x 350mm build area supported by a channel aluminum frame and steel guide rods. This is an improvement over the acrylic frame used on the A8. The bed is a heated glass panel for anchoring the model to the bed while printing. This is an improvement over the bed used on the A8. Most importantly, the motherboard has been redesigned to improve the safety of the circuitry. The components used on the motherboard are now more substantial than on the A8 and are now protected by a glass fuse. The extruder feed design and belt tensioning have also been improved over the previous model. One final feature is that the user interface is now anchored to the unit with magnets, which means that it can be removed or repositioned on the extruded aluminum more easily.

As indicated above, the design of the Anet A8 Plus is significantly advanced over the Anet A8. The design is still consistent with a “maker” aesthetic – the finished product still has exposed electronics, wiring, and mechanical components. Compare this with the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2 and you can see that the Anet looks much more functional. For what its worth, even though the Monoprice unit is more refined looking, I prefer the gantry extruder of the Anet over the cantilevered design of the Monoprice.

From the ground up this is a well-built printer. There are four large rubber feet to absorb momentum and vibration while printing. The aluminum frame is a quality design and much more resilient than an acrylic substitute. The printing platform is glass for smooth results that are designed to stay put while hot but are easy to separate later and is easy to clean. The platform rides on two guideposts and the belts for the Y-axis motor, which moves the platform can be tensioned with a wingnut. I wish that the platform could be leveled by adjusting a screw on top of the platform and not a thumb screw below. I did have a bit of a challenge getting this true to the print head, and I suggest that you do this and recheck it while it is warm to hot. The thumb screws are likely to move as time goes on I may try to set it up again with some Loctite purple threadlocker.

Getting the extruder loaded was also a bit challenging. The PLA they provided tends to feed entirely around the capstan and shoot out to the rear of the extruder head. Removing the spring arm and pivot screw that tensions the PLA in the head is easy enough, and once this is out it is simple enough to manually feed the PLA, but it is not a perfect scenario. I didn’t notice any operational problems with the feed system once the printer was operational. That is, the feeding and retracting of the printing material worked without a hitch.

Installing limit switch on the X-axis (which moves the extruder on the vertical frame) was easy but seemed like this could have also been completed at the factory.

When testing the motors the extruder needs to be hot before the feed motor will activate.  I didn’t get a positive response that the motor is wired correctly until after I tried heating the extruder block.

The controls of the machine show the extruder set point and present value, the bed set point and present value, the percent of full speed of the cooling fan, the location of the extruder in x,y,z space, the speed adjustment as a function of percent, the elapsed time and a status bar showing the percent of the model complete (in length of filament, not percent of layers). The control is menu based and is navigated by the control wheel to select menu position or value and pressing the wheel, which indicates selection. The menus are well organized and the operation is straightforward.  One issue I found is that there is a buffer on the knob movement, so caution should be taken when using this to move the extruder to the bed so as not to crash it. The screen also has a reset button mounted on the front. I would prefer that this was located on the motherboard so it is not pressed accidentally.

I did not run any popular benchmarks of this printer because as a project 3D printer, the results that I achieve may not be representative of other people’s build, but I did run a couple of models to test the operation. The first model I attempted, one of the bed nuts fell off and tilted the model. The extruder hit the model and I ended up with a bird’s nest.

advanced anet a8 extruder screw

Given my experience with high currents, I will measure the actual power consumption of both the heatbed and the extruder. To determine whether the power supply can supply the required power. And to see if the wires are sufficiently for this load.

The mainboard of this printer has had an upgrade. The version number of this new mainboard is V1.5. The plugs to connect the heatbed and the power supply to the mainboard have been replaced by screws. This should give a lower contact resistance.

First I"ve tested the XYZ stepper motors. These can be tested after connecting the power supply, the LCD screen, the motors (4) and the XYZ end stops. The fifth (extruder) motor is tested with the extruder.

Connect the power supply, LCD screen and both the heatbed and the extruder. The heatbed doesn"t work if both temperature sensors aren"t connected. The printer stops heating (the nozzle and heatbed) if one of these sensors fails or a wire break occurs.

You have to tighten the screws tightly. But keep in mind that the frame is made of acryl. Do not overtighten the screws. This might crack an acrylic part

These two elements on top of the printer have two functions. First, these are the top holders of the Z axis smooth rods. Secondly, they provide stability for movements of the extruder along the X-axis.

Attach the two motor supports to the back plate. Then secure the motor. Tighten the screws crosswise. This ensures that the motor is placed straight. The documentation does not clearly state in the direction of the motor plug. This should point forward (first image). After assembly check if the motor is positioned straight (second image). If this is not the case you have to adjust the motor supports.

To remove the foil, you must disassemble the Y carriage. When assembling, make sure that all corners are straight again. Do not directly tighten the screws 100%. It"s better to fully tighten them after the next step.

Tighten the screws crosswise (just like the stepper motors). But do not tighten them completely. First check that the y carriage moves smoothly back and forth. Then tighten all the screws (also those of the previous step). Then check again if the carriage moves smoothly.

First loosen the top two small Allen screws in both elastic couplings (do not unscrew them completely). Then turn the lead screw all the way into the 8 mm opening ot the couplings and fastem them.

These lead screws rest onto the motor shafts. This can lead to the so called z-wobble and slightly shifted layers. The couplers must be flexible if the motor and the rod are not perfectly in line. This is easy tho change when required.

Remove the two bottom screws from the aluminum block on the extruder. These will be replaced by 45 mm screws. A spring falls out when removing these two screws. Place this in the same place when assembling the extruder.

Take the two long screws, place on each of these two m3 spacers (rings). Place the the fan protector and the fan wit